With this project we are taking chain drive to the next level and seeing how well it works with 4WD and large 32″ tires. I’ve had great success with the chain drive setup on the CBR1000 buggy so with this project I want to build it again but this time we are making it 4WD with big 32″ tires and its a two seater. we are using a T90 transmission as a transfer case to give us high/medium/low range and reverse.
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You know how you've done it right? You've done it twice 🙂
Lookin forward the the finished project
Next project – hybrid rock bouncer. Don't chains more cable.
Very very long chains, interesting how it works, scary resonance.
I love that you are so willing to undo stuff when you see a better way rather than just say good enough.
I drank a shot every time you said "bump steer", they let me go home from hospital today…
🤣🤣🤣
Thx for the vid!
👍👍👍
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I like that you talk us through your thought process, especially when you make a miscalculation and explain why you would do all that work over again. It's all trial and error when you're building from scratch.
Loving your videos 🤙🏼
Hmmm. Big tires. Me thinks steering may be difficult. Maybe. May have to go with electric steering from a Prius. We'll see. Maybe it'll work.
could you have just did the shocks horizontally with pivoting anchors and push rods to get them all the way out of the way so that your axels could be straight
Take a shot every time he says bump steer
would it help the steering column angle if you flip the rack? looks really cool. don't forget about toe.
Hi bud, really enjoy your channel. Been watching from Zimbabwe. Quick question have you ever thought about putting 4 wheel steering and or independent brakes to help with cornering in even tighter places. I think would be best suited on the rock crawler, just a thought. Keep doing what you do it's brilliant.
Latest rage
Will it fit out of the shop doors? 🤔
I hope that thing is getting some big dog shocks and when are you gonna get a shop
Chris your out loud mock up is very humbling. Sometimes engineering looks ugly, but works perfectly,
Id say bump steer is more important than akerman for this. Poor akerman and the tires just scrub a little in the dirt. But bump steer means if one front wheel lands before the other after a jump, the vehicle is going to start turning in the direction of the bump steer which can be sketchy. But to be honest you probably know more than me and itl work fine anyways lol
Do you do one-off builds for people?
Bump steer is far more important then Ackerman for this type of vehicle. If you use it like this type of vehicle is intended. But looking great.
chain tensioner ???????????????????
All good fun. You have a great job that I am jealous.
If I remember, your frame is at 8 degrees. That is going to impact your steering, but most cars are somewhere at 10 degrees of caster. Probably all good. Caster is the important factor of camber during a turn.
So many chains. Looks crazy, but I have seen crazier rollercoasters.
Some early RAV4's had their rack and pinion mounted high, and the outer tie rod end mount high on the strut tower. Maybe you could mount your rack high, make extension up from the knuckles, to get all the clearances you want?
I've been watching you for a few years. This coming from a welder/fabricator of 25 years…. your design "eye" is excellent and your overall fab skills are second to none. Very talented in ALL aspects of fabrication and that's quite impressive. I hope your channel grows bigger than you ever wished for. Thank you for the great content.
Chain problems… Sure…but amazing proyect
What about using smaller sprocket at Front axle and have more room?
in terms of bump steering… if you look at the front of the truck at the spindels.
on the line between upper and lower heim joints, there should be of the heim joint for the steering.
would'nt that promis Zero bump steer?
I am curious about how a 3 to 5 degree bend at each outer end of the tie rods would work. Tie rods don't have to be straight.
Maybe a jack shaft to the “axles” to reduce the size of the front drive sprocket to clear steering !
Those extra sprockets that you put on the PULL side of the chain need to be much stronger with heavy bearings just like the carrier. The tensioner sprocket on the slop (return) side of the chain doesn't really get any pressure (until you go in reverse). Those tension/ idle sprockets on the pull side of the chain are going to break — just be warned.
A 'drop chain' (!!!) from the steering column to the steering box (rack) would allow positioning the rack at a more optimal height relative to the A-arms, and maybe slightly closer fore/aft to the spool/driveshafts hence reducing that offset to the hubs. Would also avoid having any sharp angles in steering column joints.
Don't know anything about anything, but, does the rack and pinion need to be dead center on the frame? like, in most cars, it is located offset of car center, normally, to the side of the driver, just wondering